Folk costumes from North Macedonia

Number of Cases
1317
Folk costumes from North Macedonia represent a huge wealth in terms of the number of objects and their shapes, the variety of decorations and the numerous jewelry that was used on festive occasions.
One of the main characteristics of these costumes is the preservation of many old elements in the clothing. The common features of this costume are the white color of the linen and cloth robes, their cut, the way they are decorated with distinct embroidered ornaments, woolen decorations in the form of tassels, fringes, and the use of wires and cords. The preservation of archaic elements is visible in the shapes and names of individual parts of clothing.

Special attention in the collection of the Ethnographic Museum is given to the north-western areas, on the border with Kosovo and Metohija, which were densely populated by the Serbian population until the period between the two world wars. The oldest and most richly decorated items of clothing, shirts and women's headdresses - sokaj - originate from that area.

The collection has 1317 items.

The curator in charge of the collection is Jelena Tucaković, curator: jelena.tucakovic@etnografskimuzej.rs
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Women's shirt

Inv. No. 16848
Women’s shirt from Kučevište, Skopska Crna Gora (Northern Macedonia), made of thick homespun cotton fabric. The shirt features Old Slavic and ancient Balkan cultural elements that survived until the beginning of the 20th century.

Skopska Crna Gora, Northern Macedonia
circa 1900

Women's dress – aljak

Inv. No. 3065
Richly decorated women’s dress – aljak, made of red broadcloth with sleeves. The exhibited piece originates from the village of Leunovo, near Tetovo. It was part of a bridal costume during the 19th and the first half of the 20th century.

Tetovo region, Northern Macedonia
circa 1890

Women’s zubun – formal dress

Inv. No. 1435
Formal sleeveless women's dress. The traditional name for this type of garment is kiteno zobanče. The exhibited piece originates from the village of Brazda, in the Skopje-Kumanovo region. The circular openings on the back of the woolen zubun not only served as decoration but were also believed to offer protection against evil influences and forces.

Skopska Crna Gora, Northern Macedonia
First half of the 20th century

Women's sokaj – headdress

Inv. No. 16968
Bridal headpiece – sokaj, from the village of Tresonče, worn by brides beneath a scarf – darpna, up until the end of World War II. The main features of this traditional women's attire are the rich embroidery and long tassels made of red and gold threads and yarns. The sokaj was acquired by Nikola Zega (1863–1940), ethnologist, curator, and director of the Ethnographic Museum, for the exhibition held in Bucharest in 1906.

Mavrovo, Northwestern Macedonia
Late 19th and early 20th century

Men's džemadan vest

Inv. No. 17105
Wrap-style vest – džemadan, made of black broadcloth and richly decorated with orange and red braids. It is the work of a terzija (traditional tailor of folk costumes) and represents just one of many examples of the richly adorned male folk dress from Northern Macedonia preserved in the collection of the Ethnographic Museum.

Macedonia
Second half of the 19th century

Shirt

Inv. No. 17103
Men’s shirt made of cotton cloth. It consists of a front and back panel, with eight large side gussets inserted on each side. The gussets extend up to the armpits.

Alinci, Topolčano, Northern Macedonia
Second half of the 19th century

Shirt

Inv. No. 22155
Women’s shirt made of cotton cloth. Long in form, resembling a tunic.

Bitolj, Macedonia
Mid-19th century

Headscarf – darpna

Inv. No. 16970
A white cotton square scarf. The edges on the inside are decorated with cherry-colored cloth. It is worn exclusively by brides.

Galičnik, Mavrovo, Macedonia
19th century

Apron – čultar

Inv. No. 11656
A type of apron. It is made of red woolen fabric with woven patterns of black and burgundy wool, and golden and silver metallic threads.

Alinci, Bitolj, Northern Macedonia
Late 19th century

Socks

Inv. No. 17109
Made of wool in white, red, and cherry colors. The feet and lower part of the socks are made of white wool, while the upper part features two wider bands with interwoven patterns.

Alinci, Bitolj, Northern Macedonia
Late 19th century
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